Once this is done, the acid mantle must be reestablished daily by using the proper homecare products that imitate the acid mantle. This is nature’s natural moisturizer and is the replication of the two secretions we are born with: water from the sudoriferous gland and sebum from the sebaceous gland. Together, these secretions blend on the surface of the epidermis and form the biofilm—the acid mantle.
One of the things that confuse skin therapists is the peel craze, a popularity that will not go away. This has been around as long as I have been in this field, which is 50 years. The old-fashioned medical peel with phenol acid and croton oil was the top of the line in the 1950s. I made many serums for plastic surgeons back then. I am embarrassed to confess it now, but at least I tried to slow down what basically was burning the heck out of the epidermis. The resulting erythema and edema of this peel was viewed as a “great result” only to have the real picture pop up a year later. Skin looked fake and waxy with no pigmentation or worse.
The CO2 laser was not much better, instead just vaporizing the heck out of the epidermis.
Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) were gentler, but misunderstood at first. They were not “all-natural” fruit sugar acids that were harmless as popularly touted. They are hygroscopic acids that, when applied to dead, dry cells, would pull all available moisture into the cells which swelled up like an over-full balloon, eventually bursting and the fragments detaching from the underlying newer cell epidermis.
Since that time, I have seen bio-peels, green peels, blue peels, microdermabrasion, scrapping skin off with a scalpel and even bird poop peels, whose incredulity outranks fish-nibbling peels. The assumption is that with enough peeling, miracles will happen and voila, new skin!
Gentle peeling such as with AHAs can be effective without causing the trauma associated with aggressive peels, but again, we must realize that once we do this, we have robbed the water bank of the client. Following these procedures, the practitioner must put the hydration back immediately. The “peel” is just a door opener for our real work—removing the redundant cuticle and feeding the new baby cells with the nutrients that they require and recognize.
After gentle peeling, we must add beta glucan into the skin for the Langerhans cells to help with the healing from the peel. Essential fatty acids are also important after a peel, due to the water loss. Lastly, transdermal delivery creams that penetrate the skin are a great way of putting nutrients back into the skin.
We cannot force any ingredient into new revised skin that the cells do not recognize, regardless of how exotic or trendy that ingredient may be. What could happen is either rejection, which gets no result, or contraindications.
Also, keep in mind that a thorough removal system leaves a desert behind—no water, no trees and no bushes.
This is a perfect landscape for Staphylococcus aureus or any other bad bacteria to come in and rule the land— creating all types of dermatitis and other skin anomalies.
Eczema, psoriasis or atopic dermatitis are all deficits in water. To get down into the root of it, the skin’s microbiome must be established immediately. Fortunately, we have our own good and bad bacterial colonies at certain points around the face and body. The trick is to provide a field where a protective biofilm can be formed to maintain the good bacteria and keep the bad guys at bay along with a variety of viruses and parasites
Microbiome research is a growing trend that I am pleased to be in on. It is still the tip of a very large iceberg and a lot of money will be made off hard working therapists that do not bother to research the microbiome.
Establishing a healthy skin microbiome will help regulate the skin. All the problematic skin conditions due to lack of hydration (eczema, psoriasis) will be addressed once you have a healthy microbiome. We can think about as preparing a garden. If the soil is healthy and maintained, then the plant that grows from this healthy soil will be healthy and fruitful.
When the skin condition is serious enough to warrant special microbiome treatment—such as eczema, psoriasis or atopic dermatitis—the products used must have live spores of the good bacteria. This is not easy to do and very costly to do right. I know this from three years researching this viable phenomenon, looking at everything and trying many approaches.
Following the paths of logic in biochemistry and biology, usually one can come up with workable formulas and protocols. Remember the body is a complex, organic computer capable of many self-repair modalities if given the right protocol, ingredients and environment. Client compliance with ongoing home treatment is essential to any life-changing result. Your clients must accompany you on the journey to better skin health and regardless of their IQ or education, you as the professional, must educate them along the way.
Article sourced from DMK website